BOBBY VAN’S STEAKHOUSE LANDS AT JFK AIRPORT
By Doug Singer
Bobby Van’s has been awarded a coveted spot on Tom Horan's American Top Ten Steakhouses for each of the past three years. The quintessential destination steakhouse celebrated their 40th anniversary by opening their first airport location at JFK International Airport. This is unlike the fare you would normally find while awaiting a flight and a welcome respite away from the bustle of the airport terminal. The new outpost is equipped with flat screen televisions posting flight schedules and updates to alleviate traveler stress.
Opening a restaurant of this kind at an airport is rife with issues that are unique to this environment. For example, Bobby Van’s usually cuts their dry aged steaks to order with a band saw. This is a tradition shared by most high end steakhouses. However, due to the fact that they are located after one has passed the security checkpoint, band saws are prohibited in the restaurant. Add to that spot checks by Homeland Security that include a careful count of steak knives and you start to realize the challenges that go along with running this type of facility. Because you must go through security first, this restaurant is for passengers only. As a matter of fact, I had to be issued a special boarding pass to go through security in order to enter the restaurant. After removing my belt, watch and shoes and properly redressing, I was on my way.
Located at Terminal 8, Bobby Van’s is a 5,300 square foot establishment, offering a full-service bar and a 140 seat dining area, in an elegant, classy atmosphere, surrounded by deep mahogany and plush linens. The first thing that I noticed was that there was an unusually large amount of room surrounding each table. This is designed to accommodate the carry on luggage of travelers without interfering with the walking patterns of the well informed wait staff.
The combination of a traditional American grill combined with the classic elements of a first-rate steak house best describes Bobby Van’s. From the colossal shrimp that adorn the classic Shrimp Cocktail to the expertly prepared Crab Cake, the appetizers fell in line with expectations. The Sweet Chili Tossed Calamari was excellent; however the Thai peanut dipping sauce on the plate was an unnecessary addition.
The sides being offered are what you’d commonly find in an establishment of this sort. Creamed Spinach, Asparagus, Hash Browns, etc. were all well prepared but were overshadowed by the pièce de résistance -- the steaks!
The quality and preparation of their world renowned steaks are extremely worthy of a rave. The Ribeye was almost as memorable as their famous Porterhouse. These masterpieces were cooked and seasoned to perfection. It is my opinion that it would be an absolute crime to cover these works of art with the private label steak sauce on the table, or anything other than your mouth. You don’t mess with excellence! Add to that a well endowed wine list and you know where to park yourself during that 2-3 hour wait for takeoff... Bobby Van’s.
Appetizers / $11.95 - $19.95
Entrees / $24.95 - $45.95